Tuesday, January 31, 2006

State of the Fashion Union

Within the fashion blog community, several of us have signed on with event leaders Fashiontribes to share our thoughts and feelings on the current State of the Fashion Union. Below are StyleChronicles' musings on the subject.

“Clothes, the ones that make their way into our closets as impulse buys, gifts or obligatory purchases for compulsory events, are about ourselves. If we bought Gucci leather trousers and a sheer shirt last season, it says we saw something of ourselves in those tarty trappings. But what we actually decide to put on our backs each day and venture out into the world in has nothing to do with trends or marketing. It has to do with who we want to show the world we are. Or who we want to convince ourselves we could be.” –Amy M. Spindler, “What Your Clothes Make of You.” New York Times. November 14, 1999

This quotation from Amy Spindler speaks to the eery intersection of two forces that have become inextricably linked: fashion and marketing. Perhaps what clothing we eventually choose is in fact a reflection of ourselves--but why then do we allow designers and the fashion industry to supply us with all of the tools from which to select our "image"? The State of the Fashion Union as it stands right now is one that speaks from both sides of its mouth: be yourself, they say, but only from the images and insignia we supply you with. Fashion has got to be way more experimental to stay relevant, and it is quite possible that we should rely less on what the masses think, and pay more attention to what we think.

While design houses have always influenced what's fashionable (but perhaps more so in the past), the increasingly cyclical nature of fashion design has forced many into the not-so-enviable position of finding clothing they love, and discarding it once it is "over" according to fashion authorities. On fashion sites, people ponder the life expectancy of cowboy boots, Balenciaga bags, and skinny jeans because fashion has taught us that what's hot one day isn't always the next. Fashion is not quite as full of self-expression nowadays as it is indicative of how well we as consumers can gauge trends, and obtain the most coveted purse or shoe. It's a competition to see who can demonstrate with their clothes that they carry the cultural competency to uncover the subtle meaning of fashion.

Any State of the Fashion Union address must include an acknowledgment that fashion needs to become more focused on the individual, and not the masses, big business, or marketing goals of a multinational conglomerate. Scrambling to get one's hands on the latest piece says nothing about the person behind the garment except that she or he accepts the dominating effect fashion can have on people. Instead of trendy logos, designer names, and hefty price tags just for the sake of them, perhaps our union should go forward and once again recognize the power of the individual to make their own statement, steer clear from wearing company advertising on their body, and instead bow to their own internal sentiment.

Perhaps fashion should acquiesce to style, which as a less fleeting phenomenon, indicates the core of what we'd like to present to others about ourselves through clothes. Style is about preference, but it is also about not giving into the cyclical nature of the modern fashion world--it is enduring. This doesn't mean the decline of fashion institutions; we observe fashion shows in order to know what work a designer has accomplished for a particular season, but must we deem our garb obsolete simply because something new has come our way? Cast away our fashion acquisitions and banish them every season simply because they don't fit on some list of what's "hot" and what's "not"? Our answer is a resounding "no."

We hear a lot about "being yourself" lately, but part of being oneself is acknowledging that we're never going to look good in every style, we're never going to conform to one perfect "look," and we're not meant to devour fashion's latest shiny productions simply because they are there. Construct the message you want to convey to others through whatever means necessary, and go outside the limits of what's available. This State of the Fashion Union address is meant to share the idea that perhaps true fashion is having style, knowing what trends to skip, and what pieces to incorporate into our repertoire as further expression of ourselves. So hold tight to style and to self-expression, and don't be swayed by any temptation to be anything but yourself.

Saturday, January 28, 2006

Target 'Makes Design Democratic'

Luella Bartley's new line of clothing for arrives at Target stores soon. The line, a part of Target's Go International Program, is fun and very youthful. According to the February edition of Elle, senior vice president for Target's merchandising, Trish Adams, says "'It's about making design democratic.'" The noble goals of the multi-billion dollar company have clearly manifested themselves in the program, which has in the past brought designers like Cynthia Rowley to the retail giant's sales floor. While the company's relationship with Isaac Mizrahi is apparently not a part of the Go program, it is indicative of Target's desire to stay in touch with changes in fashion, and increase their growth by giving regular people access to big name designers.

Bartley's line for Target is fun, and includes a mix of kitschy cherry patterned pieces (tote bags, skirts, and more), and then some basics like striped rugby shirts and basic blouses; the overall effect is very preppy cool. We would assume, however, that there are probably more components to the line which will only be available in stores (we're lusting over the cherry tote). Shoppers can check out part of the Luella Barley line at Target is on the website (www.target.com), (but some pieces are not available for several weeks) or the February issue of Elle. Best bet? Hit your local Target store early for the best selection of pieces. Photo from February 2006 issue of Elle.

Tuesday, January 24, 2006

Skullish

Skulls are the new black--want to add panache to an outfit? Throw on a skull patterned scarf or t-shirt. Want to make your guests feel welcome in your home? Towels emblazoned with a skull and crossbones will do the trick (the look is softened by being rendered in pink; available at Pixiegirlshop).

So what's behind this? Alexander McQueen's skull scarf from a few seasons back seems to have been the catalyst for this trend--the scarves sold out quickly, and combined soft silk with a hard-edged skull pattern. SatineBoutique.com has a cold weather alternative in Giulia Persanti's Rose Skull Scarf. Delia's has a pink tote with a slightly friendlier (relatively speaking) skull peering out at onlookers with heart-shaped eyes. Needless to say, one need not pair multiple skull patterns together at once--just one at a time will do, a la Lindsay Lohan. Overall, skulls are a good way to break an outfit up if everything looks a little too perfect. Also, throwing a skull-patterned anything into your outfit makes you just, well, bad-ass and pirate-like (and who doesn't want to be pirate-like?). Ahoy, matey.

We Want to Be Where They Are (Some Place Warm)

A half-serious inquiry: where is it that Urban Outfitters' models exist, and is it perenially warm there? We love Urban for their funky basics and dead-on interpretations of much more expensive clothes (loved the Damsel wide-leg pants Urban sold instead of St. Grace's pricier version), but it is terribly difficult to find anything on the site besides space-dyed sweaters and a limited collection of thermal tees for winter weather. ...And this is not a result of the approaching spring: in Urban Land, even November is the perfect time for an irreverant t-shirt or ethereal sleeveless blouse. Now, this may work for some who live in warm climates, but how about representing the poor souls in Syracuse or numbed-by-winter New Yorkers with some cold weather options? Just a thought. ...But if you absolutely have to have a t-shirt, or you live in a place where people enjoy positively blissful days in eighty degree heat, why not choose the t-shirt at right?

Sunday, January 15, 2006

In the quest for a laptop bag, leave no stone unturned

Finding a good bag to tote both your laptop and everyday essentials can be quite a task--you either end up hauling your goods in a student-esque backpack, or spending too much on a bag that might not even protect your computer (and one must always protect their hardware). Enter Alex Grant Bags, a company that makes "luxury laptop bags and cases" that value both form and function. One StyleChronicles reader noted, "The cool thing about it, function-wise, is that it's got a mini-case that slips inside a bigger tote, so I can either bring the whole big bag if I have a lot of stuff to carry around, or just pull out the little case on its own. Kind of like three bags in one." The special removable case is available on several models, including a more streamlined tote called the "Dillon," the "Billie," as well as the "Skye." You can find AGB laptop cases at Fred Segal in Los Angeles, as well as Jacqueline Jarrot. In New York City, they're available at Big Bag; you can also buy Alex Grant Bags at www.agbstore.com. Photos courtesy of agbstore.com.

Wednesday, January 04, 2006

Mary Kate Channels Kate Hudson...Er, Bogart... Whatever.


Mary Kate Olsen (left) was out and about in Los Angeles recently, presumably channeling Kate Hudson (at right in a photo taken a few months ago) in the prerequisite concert t-shirt and menswear-inspired headwear--but what happens in Hollywood when two stars dressed identically collide? How does one know from where the look emerged in the first place? How can anything be an "individual" look if the whole world is watching, and big companies mass produce the next "hot" fashion item? Discuss among yourselves...


Or perhaps it is really Kate Hudson who is trying to get Mary Kate's look by not carrying one coffee beverage, but two at the same time (this is presumably also a habit Mary Kate has, judging from photographs of the NYU defectee/mini-mogul)... One may never know, but chances are that young women and stylists everywhere will suddenly discover a fondness for these "Casablanca" style hats this spring...

Monday, January 02, 2006

You're A Shining Star, No Matter Who You Are...

Virgin Threads, one of the best places to find emerging designers' work on the internet, is now known as Stars and Infinite Darkness. The new name is based in part on "...how I see the designers on my website as small stars," says Jason Yang, the owner of Stars and Infinite Darkness. [StyleChronicles profiled Virgin Threads back in July 2005... read the article]. Yang has tons of new additions to make now that the site has made the switch to its celestial new name--be sure to check out Lorraine McCue's Stitched Scarf for keeping warm throughout the winter, and Stella Neptune's skull-adorned blazers and shirts. Also check out Steve Rosswick's collection of men's tees--which are equal parts fun and functional (be sure to check out his "Bonsai?" tree shirt). In addition to these updates, Jason says that the launch of the new name will also bring about other changes to the site. "We'll be focusing on more international designers as well as finding more unusual and edgier items," Jason states. Yang's talent for spotting emerging designers is part of the success of the site, and allows many artists to get the exposure they need to make a name for themselves--these two features make it one to watch in the coming months.

Photo courtesy of Lorraine McCue on Stars and Infinite Darkness
.
www.starsandinfinitedarkness.com.