Begeren Melrose Clutch

Yes, it's true that the current trend in bags is to carry one that's nearly half the size of your body, but let's face it, you can't carry that when you go out at night. We know it may be hard, but you have to wean yourself off of the compulsion to throw everything you might need in one year into your handbag. It's practically a syndrome, but it can be stopped.

Luckily, an antidote to this malady exists in the form of the Melrose Clutch, by Begeren. Due to its super thoughtful accordion pleat construction and lightweight Italian lambskin material, this bad boy lets you carry your essentials out at night (or day) without appearing bulky. It is the perfect way to feel prepared for the evening, without sacrificing style.

The Melrose clutch comes in 'Armagnac', a deep butterscotch color with a basketweave texture, and our personal favorite, 'Mod Crackle'. Given this season's predilection for all things black and white, the Mod Crackle version of the Melrose Clutch fits right in, and due to the simple black and white colors, also allows you to mix and match it with a variety of outfits.

All Begeren bags are the brainchild of designer Linda Ly, profiled in June 2006 (read more here). Using only the best materials, Ly creates a variety of handbags for the line. While each bag is gorgeous, Ly designs with an eye towards functionality. Head to www.begeren.com to check out the Melrose Clutch and a number of Ly's other designs, and use the code below for 20% off!

Until November 15th, use the code 'STYLECHRON20' for 20% off your purchase!

Steal This Hoodie

Well, sort of. LuvCharlie now features "The Weekly Steal," which allows customers to get deep discounts on very current items, like this Mike & Chris Drew Hoodie. What makes this hoodie so darn special? Mike & Chris allow you to be comfortable in 100% cotton fleece, but not at the expense of style, so you can be cozy and still look cool. In addition to the Drew hoodie, we also love the (albeit full priced) Harvey Fleece Tunic, which has cool ribbing details at the top, bottom, and sleeves. It's all so simple, but that is what makes it so striking.

This weekly only at LuvCharlie.com you can get the Mike & Chris Drew Hoodie for $120 instead of $165. You can wear it all fall as a light jacket, and once it gets colder, layer it with thermals and tees for warmth. Available here.

Photo courtesy of LuvCharlie.com.

Take That!: Lippman Nail Polish's 'Hit Me With Your Best Shot' vs. Chanel Black Satin

With the launch of Chanel's Black Satin nail enamel, polish isn't as simple as choosing Essie Ballet Slippers or a classic red anymore. Chanel Black Satin--a deep black with subtle flecks of silver--would be nothing, however, if the whole dark nail trend hadn't exploded over the past year. Why is this relevant to fashion? Because nail color has become increasingly important as a vehicle of self-expression, just like clothing. It sounds silly, but nails--whether they are long and artificial, or short and well-groomed--are as essential an accessory as a handbag to many people. They reveal (or conceal) characteristics about ourselves that speak volumes to the world. Nails, as it would seem, have become yet another surface upon which to make our mark, to indicate whether we "get" a trend and embrace it, or not.

What was once considered a look for only the truly 'goth' among us, black nail polish has been embraced by all types whether they be diamond-ring-wearing Barneys shoppers, or cheeky purveyors of street fashion. Proof of the explosive popularity of black nail polish? Just try getting your hands on a bottle of Chanel Black Satin nail polish--not possible. What retailed for $18 a bottle at Neiman Marcus or Saks can now only be found on eBay, easily going for $80 plus a bottle (here are some eBay listings for the stuff). Despite this buying frenzy, Jolie in NYC blogs, "While I love most everything Chanel, I’m sorry, folks—no nail polish is worth paying nearly triple for."

Jolie recommends trying Essie Licorice instead, but we also really love Lippmann Collection's "Hit Me With Your Best Shot," (pictured in photo at left) a nail polish developed with 80's rocker Pat Benatar. "Hit Me With Your Best Shot" is less strikingly black like the Chanel polish, but just as pleasing with a very subtle (very) gunmetal finish, with flecks of silver that are not extremely noticeable (similar in that way to the Chanel Black Satin polish). If that does not work for you, try hunting down a bottle of OPI or Rimmel's Black Satin colors (yes, they both have the same name as the $18 Chanel version). One word of caution, however, Rimmel Black Satin is a flat black--it does not have a trace of shimmer like the OPI version, or for that matter, the Chanel or Lippman versions. You can purchase the Lippmann Collection online at www.lippmanncollection.com, or www.beautysak.com.

Black nail polish, unlike black clothing, is not universally flattering. So, just like every other trend, we must always evaluate whether or not it will look good on ourselves. Another wearable alternative to black nail polish is OPI's Lincoln Park After Dark. This is an extremely dark color, but has a plum undertone that makes it a bit more palatable. ...And if you decide not to even go there to the dark side (of nail polish, that is) there are plenty of other incredible nail polishes that will say lots about you in just the same way.

Ashley Olsen Debuts "The Row"

Ashley Olsen, the twin that internedfor Zac Posen in her freshman year at NYU, is now the designer behind new label The Row, according to Fashion Week Daily. At a recent event held at Barneys to honor Nicholas Ghesquière, Ashley wore a plaid shrug of sorts with ruffle detail at the collar. The piece had an allure all its own, which is sort of like the Olsen style ethic: a little risky, perhaps a touch unusual, but completely fashionable in the sense that what they wear isn't totally cookie cutter. The fact that the Olsens often get derided in popular media for their outfits is even refreshing—at least what they put on doesn't look like a clone of every other Rachel Zoe-styled young celeb.

As Nitrolicious blog points out, we can only hope that the rest of The Row is just as interesting as Ashley's shrug at the Barneys party. Still, however, one has to marvel at the dexterity of the Olsen twin empire. Here are two young women able to sell scented body spray in CVS, clothing at Wal*Mart, and also, at least in the case of Ashley, have the ability to add an upscale, interesting clothing line into the mix. Regardless of the fact that this ability to produce numerous sources of revenue is motivated by a desire to futher their DualStar empire, it is done in a thoroughly modern way. Their brand is truly democratic--they want their take on fashion (if you can call it that) to be available to everyone--so whether you shop at Walmart or Bergdorf, you'll be able to get a piece of the enigmatic "dumpster chic" the Olsens made popular more than a year ago, and which was so newsworthy Ruth La Ferla of the Times wrote,

"LAST fall, soon after Mary-Kate Olsen enrolled as one of only two self-made multimillionaires in the freshman class of New York University, she was seen dashing around Greenwich Village wearing floppy hats, huge sunglasses, dust-catcher skirts and street-sweeping cable-knit cardigans.

As fall turned to winter and edged toward spring, Ms. Olsen, 18, pushed her version of ashcan chic to emphatic extremes, an evolution charted by glossy magazines that snoop on stars in everyday activities. The look became dottier and dottier, until it morphed into a kind of homeless masquerade, one that was accented by subtle luxuries like a cashmere muffler, a Balenciaga lariat bag and of course her signature carryout latte from Starbucks.

Ms. Olsen is a fashion pauvre, and so is her equally funky twin, Ashley (the other self-made millionaire N.Y.U. freshman). Their style would seem to mark them as front-runners for Earl Blackwell's worst-dressed list. In fact the twins are trendsetters for the latest hipster look. They are influencing the same generation of girls and young women who fell for them as wholesome child stars, buying their Mattel dolls, and who later, as tweens, spent $750 million a year on denims and pastel tops from the mary-kateandashley line at Wal-Mart.

''The Olsens are the real thing,'' fashion role models for a generation entering adulthood, said Karen Berenson, a stylist who works in New York and Los Angeles. She is unfazed by Mary-Kate Olsen's widely publicized admission last year to a clinic to treat an eating disorder and her continuing recovery. ''She makes skinny girls in baggy clothes look cool,'' Ms. Berenson said.

Teenagers and young women have long taken style cues from celebrities, of course. But the sway of the Olsens is especially surprising because it is a radical swing from influences of recent years, like the flamboyantly sexy, skin-baring style of Christina Aguilera and Jessica Simpson, as well as the heiress look popularized by Paris Hilton.

Just months ago, ''stylish young women used to wear Gucci or Prada head to toe,'' Ms. Berenson said. Today they are more apt to be seen at supermarkets or parties toting a beat-up Chloe bag, their eyes shaded by enormous, high-priced Laura Biaggiotti sunglasses, the faint suggestion of opulence hidden beneath chadorlike layers of cashmere and ankle-length peasant skirts.

David Wolfe, the creative director of the Doneger Group, which forecasts fashion trends, was in Las Vegas last month at a fashion trade show. ''The trendiest, coolest people were wearing things like a chiffon skirt with fur boots,'' he said. ''It looked like they had gotten dressed in the dark.''

The new look has acquired a name: Bobo style. ''You know, bohemian bourgeois,'' explained Kathryn Neal, 28, a freelance writer in New York, who is partial to billowing Alexander McQueen pirate shirts worn with beat-up jeans. ''Bobo'' is borrowed from the title of a five-year-old work of pop sociology, ''Bobos in Paradise'' by David Brooks, now an Op-Ed columnist for The New York Times. He used the term to describe a breed of well-heeled consumers who bashed materialism while embracing all manner of luxury.

Lauren Stover, the author of ''Bohemian Manifesto: A Field Guide to Living on the Edge'' (Bulfinch Press, 2004), has noticed the trend, which has cropped up in moneyed communities from Beverly Hills to the Upper West Side, where young women wear grandma's crocheted shawl, moth-eaten cashmere sweaters and scuffed cowboy boots. ''It's perfectly fine to look like a bag lady,'' Ms. Stover said.

The look flies in the face of the conventions of elegance that dominated fashion runways as little as a year ago. More important, it seems to address the discomfort of a younger generation with overt displays of wealth."

--Taken from "Mary-Kate, Fashion Star," New York Times, March 6, 2005 (Sunday), Section 9; Column 5; Style Desk.

Although many still balk at the idea of the Olsen brand of dumpster chic, it does have an upside. As Scribbilista pointed out back in February, "...there is a silver lining to Dumpster Chic: We can all eat carbs again." -StyleChronicles.com

It's 9am on a Wednesday, and an engagement you're supposed to make an appearance at is the same evening. At the office and unable to take the day off to go shopping, you realize your options are limited: attend the event in the same item you wore to work that day (which is decidedly unfabulous) or somehow manage to use your lunch hour to scour the racks at either a local department store or boutique. While women across the country may face this dilemma quite often, Manhattanites no longer face such quandries. Net-a-porter.com, home of all things fabulous (McQ by Alexander McQueen, Chloe, Matthew Williamson, and Catherine Malandrino, among others) now gives customers in Manhattan the option of receiving their merchandise the same day.

The same day delivery option comes in tandem with other Net-a-porter good news: the website now ships from the U.S., which means you get your Louboutins in about two business days, and you don't have to deal with exchange rates and duty fees. Sound too good to be true? It's not! Just check out Net-a-porter.com for details.

Lesa Wallace Prosperity Bag

There is just something about the approaching fall season that makes us want to buy a new handbag and clean out all the items we've been toting around all summer (that extra tin of Altoids, hair elastics, random receipts, and similar items)...

Perhaps it's the back to school displays in stores, or those gleeful Staples commercials that show parents eager to ship their kids back to the schoolhouse, but fall makes us want to get organized, but not without regard for style.

Enter Lesa Wallace's "Prosperity" handbag, available on CoutureCandy.com: made from 100% leather, its graceful curves and charming buckles disguise the fact that this bag is a super organizational tool (an excellent excuse to purchase it). It has two large front pockets for cell phone, keys, and all the other items you want to keep close at hand, but also two large interior sections (with respective zippers). The dual compartment is perfect for files, magazines, and all of the other junk we cart around. Aptly named, all of the little nooks and crannies on the handbag mean you always know where your favorite lipgloss is hiding, while simultaneously ratcheting up your overall efficiency quotient (enter the prosperity).

So embrace organization, and look good while doing so...
Photo property and courtesy of CoutureCandy.com.

The cat is out of the (hand)bag...

See By Chloe, Zac Posen, Marc Jacobs, Anna Sui, and Christian Louboutin will all be there, so you should too... And where is 'there'? Why Net-a-porter.com, of course!

On Sunday, July 2nd, prices will drop on the aforementioned designers, as well as many, many more (Roberto Cavalli, Stella McCartney, Vanessa Bruno, to name just a few), as part of the venerable fashion site's summer sale, which will last until July 18th.

It goes without saying that if you want the best merch, and the best deals, get there in two shakes of a lamb's tale. Or perhaps even one. What's in store for shoppers, so to speak? Luella Skinny jeans: 30% off retail. Rouland Mouret Ytrium Jersey dress: 40% off. And, as if we really need to say more: Chloe Large Silverado bag? HALF off! So remember, Net-a-porter.com's sale starts bright and early this Sunday, July 2nd. www.net-a-porter.com.

Rachel Pally Gets Skullish, Too

Skulls are the new black. Case in point is yet another young designer getting in on the skull trend--this time, it is Rachel Pally (she's joining the great Alexander McQueen who did a great deal to bring the skull trend to fruition--read more in "Skullish Fashion Gets Back to Bare Bones"). Known for her fluid dresses and tops that wrap the skin in supersoft modal material, Pally has proven that her pieces have style and substance.

Pally's new skull print comes in a versatile obi that can be worn around the waist, in the hair, on the neck, on the wrist... ok, anywhere. Vaguely pirate-like, the print also appears on eighties-inspired leggings, the "Twist Tank," as well as a racer back tank ($88, $124, and $102, respectively). At $53, the obi is your best bet both in terms of price and versatility. All available on ShopBop.com.

Gina Michele Foldover Coat

It may be hot and humid, but we simply have to rave about Gina Michele's Foldover Coat, available on LuvCharlie.com. While slouchy enough to be worn casually, this coat has lots of details that make it a bit more refined than most other jackets (wool tweed, larger cuffs, and a single button closure).

StyleChronicles profiled designer Gina Michele back in June 2005, when she brought shoppers a beautiful collection of other items with heavenly details, and she still does not disappoint. You can find Gina Michele's designs on LuvCharlie.com, as aforementioned and also GinaMichele.com and StarsandInfiniteDarkness.com.

Spring Sale Season

Head over to Revolve Clothing for its huge spring sale. Normally we don't go hawking sales randomly, but this one's a goodie: Eisbar tees, Joe's Jeans, Ella Moss, Grail and more are on sale. While we're at it, we might as well mention that Eluxury's sale is still going strong--pick up Paige Denim, James Jeans, Paper Denim & Cloth, Notify and Antik denim lines at a good discount. ...And good deals also abound on Kooba bags at Active Endeavors: get the Kooba Chiara bag for almost two-hundred dollars less than retail, as well as a ton of very cute, wearable spring tees at twenty-five to thirty percent off retail (Rebel Yell, Jake's Dry Goods, Trunk LTD, and Project E, among others).


Photo credit: ActiveEndeavors.com.

Intermix Springs Into 2006 With New Look

Spring is a time of renewal, so it is fitting that Intermix's completely revamped website is making its debut right now. Streamlined and fortified with tons of great new lines, the site is visually appealing and easy to browse. The site, which is the online arm of the popular chain of boutiques in New York City, Boston, Miami, Atlanta, and Washington D.C., carries many hard-to-find brands including Yigal Azrouel, Taka, and Imitation of Christ, as well as boutique favorites such as Vince, Catherine Malandrino, Kors by Michael Kors, Theory, and LaROK, among others.

Just like the newly re-styled site, Intermix stores themselves feature a minimalist design philosophy, allowing the merchandise to speak for itself--it keeps things uncomplicated, yet appealing. The success of the stores allowed the boutique chain to test the waters of online retailing not too long ago; after gauging their response, they decided to give shoppers exactly what they wanted, and set out to improve the onling Intermix shopping experience.

To get the inside scoop on the newly redesigned site, StyleChronicles recently spoke with Intermix CEO Khajak Keledjian about the enhanced Intermixonline.com.

What was the motivation for redesigning the Intermix website?

Khajak Keledjian: Our first site taught us that the demand for Intermix online was huge, and we needed to build a stronger technical foundation before going all out with an online store. So that's what we did - we rebuilt the site from the ground up and integrated it with our stores, both in terms of inventory and fulfillment, and also in terms of our marketing, branding, and merchandising. Our customers want the latest and newest, so we designed the site with special sections such as a weekly trend story and "The Look" to highlight new merchandise and our unique mix message. In addition, our weekly "Lust List" email newsletter emphasizes all the major stories and trends for the week.

What lines have really taken center stage after the transformation?

Keledjian: As in our stores, our mix of brands really appeals to our online customers. They love our established bestsellers like Diane von Furstenberg and KORS by Michael Kors, and they also turn to us for key pieces from designers like Sonia Rykiel, Stella McCartney and Chloe. At the same time, we're the go-to site for the best of the best, even from less well-known designers like Loeffler Randall and Lauren Jane. And you can't forget our key fashion launches - this spring we've already debuted the new Imitation of Christ denim collection and Norma Kamali's collection for Everlast.

Is there one line or piece that stands out for spring/summer 2006, either a clothing item or accessories?

Keledjian: It's "the year of the dress" so we're seeing demand for every kind of dress - from the DVF wrap to See by Chloe slip dresses and Mint peasant dresses. This spring we also collaborated with Diane von Furstenberg to create an exclusive jumpsuit styled along the lines of her wrap dresses, and it has been a real strong seller.

What do you think the typical Intermix shopper is looking for in an online shopping experience, and how do you think Intermix meets their needs?

Keledjian: The first priority for an Intermix shopper is the best product out there, day in and day out. We put new merchandise on the site every day. Just like in our stores, every time someone visits the site there's more to discover. After that, fulfillment is the most important. Many websites appear to have considerable collections, but when it comes to ordering you'll find that the item is not available. We work extremely hard to keep our inventory current and ready to ship. Ease of use and customer service are the final pieces. Our customers are busy - they need a site that can run at their pace.

What can Intermix shoppers look forward to this fall? Will there be an easy transition from spring/summer to autumn in terms of the looks we'll see?

Keledjian: Our ability to transition seamlessly between seasons is one of Intermix's biggest strengths. Because we are constantly updating our product assortment, we are able to offer "buy now, wear now" merchandise to help them transition into each new season. As for Fall 2006, we are in Europe reviewing the collections right this minute so we will keep you posted! -SC

All photos are property of Intermixonline.com; from top left: Taka Baby Doll Dress; Kenneth Jay Lane amber necklace; Catherine Malandrino Slip Dress; Johnson shorts. Visit www.intermixonline.com for more information.

American Express Red Card

The new American Express Red Card does more than your average piece of plastic. According to Brandweek, 1% of all purchases on the credit card go towards fighting HIV/AIDs. Through the Red Card (sibling to AmEx's famous Black Card, reserved for the super spenders among us) American Express hopes to target a group they're calling "'Conscience Consumers'," Brandweek explains.

The new Red Card is slowly gaining momentum, and celebrity endorsements, even though it was launched at the end of January. Celebrity Sailing has posted photos of model Elle MacPherson promoting the card, and of course, U2 frontman Bono appears to be integrally involved in raising awareness about this new way to spend without guilt. According to Financial Times, however, "Cynics will see such products as a way of charging higher prices and passing on only a fraction of the extra to the people they are supposed to help," but apparently something is better than nothing to shoppers--or shall we say"conscience consumers" (is that an oxymoron?).

Whether this new commodified means of social awareness is a permanent feature of consumption or just yet another way to feel like we're doing something to change the world is still unclear. Without a doubt, however, AmEx has tapped into a market that is increasingly aware that there are bigger problems out there than simply picking out the right pair of Manolo Blahniks for Friday night. Maybe this bodes well for the future--people are realizing that with prosperity comes social responsibility.

At The Intersection of Fashion and Culture: Retail Space as Cultural Expression

In a February 21st posting on Flypaper, Wendy posts about The New Boutique: Fashion And Design by Neil Bingham (May 2005), a book that precisely captures the intersection of fashion and culture. Bingham, an architectural and cultural critic, delivers photographs of retail spaces that present merchandise, but also takes into account the cultural forces that produce clothing and other items. Wendy's post got us thinking about the ways in which design influences several aspects of our lives.

"The atmosphere within a retail space tells a story, it can draw us in, make us stay, and keep coming back for more. It can speak to, or be a reflection of, the cultural environment, neighborhood where it resides, and the type of clientele it is looking to attract," explains Cheryl Spigler, an interior designer in Boston. This makes one question what the purpose of retail space actually is, and how it changes depending on the culture in which it resides; obviously in many of North America's chain stores, the issue of the space is merely a question of how much merchandise can be attractively packed into a certain amount of square footage, but some upscale boutiques (although not exclusively) are pushing the limits of retail space and making it serve the community--an interesting idea. Increasingly, however, retailers are realizing the importance of creating stores that are more than just racks of clothing or other merchandise neatly arranged.

Spigler seems to agree with this populist approach to design. "Good design is for everyone," she states. It is definitely for everyone, and now it appears it is by everyone, as well. Given the rise in interactive design elements, Spigler notes, it is becoming increasingly possible for shoppers to customize their shopping experience based on several factors, including Spigler states, "neighborhood, income level, ethnicity, or education." In this way, retail spaces become multifunctional--they reflect not only the shoppers desires, but also aspects of themselves.

Perhaps the best example of multifunctional retail space that we've seen recently in person is Dutch architect Rem Koolhaas' design for the Prada store in SoHo in New York City. At the boutique, dresses and shoes stand next to a ready made theatre space. Of his work, Koolhaas has said, "'Architects, for the first time in several decades, are being solicited for their power to physically articulate new visions...'". Being able to shop and view films, artwork, and other presentations in a retail space leaves ample room for turning the current reail business model upside down. Customers can demand more than the simple shop-then-purchase chain of events.

The co-opting of retail spaces by the shoppers who support them is an interesting phenomenon. If people can exert more control over the shopping experience--essentially customize and maintain it through technology and other means, the possibility of reshaping the entire consumer role is possible as well. Books such as Bingham's are a reminder that change is possible, that design is significant to human experience, and it can broaden our entire approach to influencing change in the social world.

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Badgley Mischka Campaign Features Olsens

The Olsen twins are the new faces of Badgley Mischka. For the first time since their Ashley and Mary Kate empire began producing perfume, clothing, and make-up for stores like Wal-Mart, the twins are using their star power for the advancement of a line other than their own.

What's curious about this advertising campaign is that besides their movie "New York Minute" (which tanked at the box office), the twins really have not done much in the past couple of years besides appear in a massive quantity of paparazzi photos. Sure, they were interviewed in magazines (Ashley in Harper's Bazaar in July 2005, and Mary Kate in the January 2006 edition of W) and have appeared in various promotional tours in Australia and Canada for their Dualstar empire, but other than that, the Olsens have kept a relatively low profile (besides random appearances to of course buy enormous coffees or party in New York City).

So then why did Badgley Mischka pick the twins for their new ad campaign? According to The Daily Dish, the Badgley Mischka designing duo picked the twins because of their "'sensual glamour'". Besides the unbelievability of two nineteen year-old, waif-like girls emanating sensual glamour, the appearance of the twins as the new face/faces (they are fraternal twins, you know) of Badgley Mischka demonstrates the power of paparazzi to catapult you from 'tween purgatory to fashion icon status. Since the public really has not heard much from the twins since they started NYU (Mary Kate subsequently took a "leave of absence" from the school), and the only thing we've seen them in is Us Weekly and Star, we don't know what to think about this new campaign--where were the other 999,998 women who emanated sensual glamour the day they picked the Olsens?

What trouble us is that we're greeted by the Badgely Mischka advertisment as if the general adult public had already been made aware of the twins' significance beyond their lip gloss line at Wal-Mart. But we haven't. Still, people seem to love the Olsens despite their well-orchestrated lives as "there/not there" celebrities. Surely Badgely Mischka do.

What's Old is New Again At Yesterday's Moment

We've loved Yesterday's Moment for a while now, but we have to once again rave about their collection of accessories, particularly necklaces. They have a lot of interesting necklaces up right now, all affordably priced (which we really like) and of course, most of the items are vintage (yay, jewelry recycling!). Sites like YM are really cool because you have the opportunity to opt out of buying only new pieces, which is not only good for the environment, but you get a little history with your bracelet/ring/necklace, too.

The cool thing about many of the vintage sites out there like Yesterday's Moment is that they highlight the fact that fashion really is cyclical--what's old is suddenly new again. Unlike clothing and items from twenty or thirty years ago, however, today's pieces are not made as durably. We're far more inclined to dispose of clothing once we're through with it, or someone tells us it is not fashionable anymore. We're all guilty of this. Buying vintage, though, is one way to remind ourselves that disposability isn't much of a virtue when it comes to clothing, and it also makes it more difficult to find a particular style that suits an individual, and stands the test of time. Alright, we'll get off our soapbox now, as long as you go check out Yesterday's Moment (www.yesterdaysmoment.com). Photos courtesy of Yesterday's Moment.

State of the Fashion Union

Within the fashion blog community, several of us have signed on with event leaders Fashiontribes to share our thoughts and feelings on the current State of the Fashion Union. Below are StyleChronicles' musings on the subject.

“Clothes, the ones that make their way into our closets as impulse buys, gifts or obligatory purchases for compulsory events, are about ourselves. If we bought Gucci leather trousers and a sheer shirt last season, it says we saw something of ourselves in those tarty trappings. But what we actually decide to put on our backs each day and venture out into the world in has nothing to do with trends or marketing. It has to do with who we want to show the world we are. Or who we want to convince ourselves we could be.” –Amy M. Spindler, “What Your Clothes Make of You.” New York Times. November 14, 1999

This quotation from Amy Spindler speaks to the eery intersection of two forces that have become inextricably linked: fashion and marketing. Perhaps what clothing we eventually choose is in fact a reflection of ourselves--but why then do we allow designers and the fashion industry to supply us with all of the tools from which to select our "image"? The State of the Fashion Union as it stands right now is one that speaks from both sides of its mouth: be yourself, they say, but only from the images and insignia we supply you with. Fashion has got to be way more experimental to stay relevant, and it is quite possible that we should rely less on what the masses think, and pay more attention to what we think.

While design houses have always influenced what's fashionable (but perhaps more so in the past), the increasingly cyclical nature of fashion design has forced many into the not-so-enviable position of finding clothing they love, and discarding it once it is "over" according to fashion authorities. On fashion sites, people ponder the life expectancy of cowboy boots, Balenciaga bags, and skinny jeans because fashion has taught us that what's hot one day isn't always the next. Fashion is not quite as full of self-expression nowadays as it is indicative of how well we as consumers can gauge trends, and obtain the most coveted purse or shoe. It's a competition to see who can demonstrate with their clothes that they carry the cultural competency to uncover the subtle meaning of fashion.

Any State of the Fashion Union address must include an acknowledgment that fashion needs to become more focused on the individual, and not the masses, big business, or marketing goals of a multinational conglomerate. Scrambling to get one's hands on the latest piece says nothing about the person behind the garment except that she or he accepts the dominating effect fashion can have on people. Instead of trendy logos, designer names, and hefty price tags just for the sake of them, perhaps our union should go forward and once again recognize the power of the individual to make their own statement, steer clear from wearing company advertising on their body, and instead bow to their own internal sentiment.

Perhaps fashion should acquiesce to style, which as a less fleeting phenomenon, indicates the core of what we'd like to present to others about ourselves through clothes. Style is about preference, but it is also about not giving into the cyclical nature of the modern fashion world--it is enduring. This doesn't mean the decline of fashion institutions; we observe fashion shows in order to know what work a designer has accomplished for a particular season, but must we deem our garb obsolete simply because something new has come our way? Cast away our fashion acquisitions and banish them every season simply because they don't fit on some list of what's "hot" and what's "not"? Our answer is a resounding "no."

We hear a lot about "being yourself" lately, but part of being oneself is acknowledging that we're never going to look good in every style, we're never going to conform to one perfect "look," and we're not meant to devour fashion's latest shiny productions simply because they are there. Construct the message you want to convey to others through whatever means necessary, and go outside the limits of what's available. This State of the Fashion Union address is meant to share the idea that perhaps true fashion is having style, knowing what trends to skip, and what pieces to incorporate into our repertoire as further expression of ourselves. So hold tight to style and to self-expression, and don't be swayed by any temptation to be anything but yourself.

Target 'Makes Design Democratic'

Luella Bartley's new line of clothing for arrives at Target stores soon. The line, a part of Target's Go International Program, is fun and very youthful. According to the February edition of Elle, senior vice president for Target's merchandising, Trish Adams, says "'It's about making design democratic.'" The noble goals of the multi-billion dollar company have clearly manifested themselves in the program, which has in the past brought designers like Cynthia Rowley to the retail giant's sales floor. While the company's relationship with Isaac Mizrahi is apparently not a part of the Go program, it is indicative of Target's desire to stay in touch with changes in fashion, and increase their growth by giving regular people access to big name designers.

Bartley's line for Target is fun, and includes a mix of kitschy cherry patterned pieces (tote bags, skirts, and more), and then some basics like striped rugby shirts and basic blouses; the overall effect is very preppy cool. We would assume, however, that there are probably more components to the line which will only be available in stores (we're lusting over the cherry tote). Shoppers can check out part of the Luella Barley line at Target is on the website (www.target.com), (but some pieces are not available for several weeks) or the February issue of Elle. Best bet? Hit your local Target store early for the best selection of pieces. Photo from February 2006 issue of Elle.

Skullish

Skulls are the new black--want to add panache to an outfit? Throw on a skull patterned scarf or t-shirt. Want to make your guests feel welcome in your home? Towels emblazoned with a skull and crossbones will do the trick (the look is softened by being rendered in pink; available at Pixiegirlshop).

So what's behind this? Alexander McQueen's skull scarf from a few seasons back seems to have been the catalyst for this trend--the scarves sold out quickly, and combined soft silk with a hard-edged skull pattern. SatineBoutique.com has a cold weather alternative in Giulia Persanti's Rose Skull Scarf. Delia's has a pink tote with a slightly friendlier (relatively speaking) skull peering out at onlookers with heart-shaped eyes. Needless to say, one need not pair multiple skull patterns together at once--just one at a time will do, a la Lindsay Lohan. Overall, skulls are a good way to break an outfit up if everything looks a little too perfect. Also, throwing a skull-patterned anything into your outfit makes you just, well, bad-ass and pirate-like (and who doesn't want to be pirate-like?). Ahoy, matey.

We Want to Be Where They Are (Some Place Warm)

A half-serious inquiry: where is it that Urban Outfitters' models exist, and is it perenially warm there? We love Urban for their funky basics and dead-on interpretations of much more expensive clothes (loved the Damsel wide-leg pants Urban sold instead of St. Grace's pricier version), but it is terribly difficult to find anything on the site besides space-dyed sweaters and a limited collection of thermal tees for winter weather. ...And this is not a result of the approaching spring: in Urban Land, even November is the perfect time for an irreverant t-shirt or ethereal sleeveless blouse. Now, this may work for some who live in warm climates, but how about representing the poor souls in Syracuse or numbed-by-winter New Yorkers with some cold weather options? Just a thought. ...But if you absolutely have to have a t-shirt, or you live in a place where people enjoy positively blissful days in eighty degree heat, why not choose the t-shirt at right?

In the quest for a laptop bag, leave no stone unturned

Finding a good bag to tote both your laptop and everyday essentials can be quite a task--you either end up hauling your goods in a student-esque backpack, or spending too much on a bag that might not even protect your computer (and one must always protect their hardware). Enter Alex Grant Bags, a company that makes "luxury laptop bags and cases" that value both form and function. One StyleChronicles reader noted, "The cool thing about it, function-wise, is that it's got a mini-case that slips inside a bigger tote, so I can either bring the whole big bag if I have a lot of stuff to carry around, or just pull out the little case on its own. Kind of like three bags in one." The special removable case is available on several models, including a more streamlined tote called the "Dillon," the "Billie," as well as the "Skye." You can find AGB laptop cases at Fred Segal in Los Angeles, as well as Jacqueline Jarrot. In New York City, they're available at Big Bag; you can also buy Alex Grant Bags at www.agbstore.com. Photos courtesy of agbstore.com.

Mary Kate Channels Kate Hudson...Er, Bogart... Whatever.

Mary Kate Olsen (left) was out and about in Los Angeles recently, presumably channeling Kate Hudson (at right in a photo taken a few months ago) in the prerequisite concert t-shirt and menswear-inspired headwear--but what happens in Hollywood when two stars dressed identically collide? How does one know from where the look emerged in the first place? How can anything be an "individual" look if the whole world is watching, and big companies mass produce the next "hot" fashion item? Discuss among yourselves...

Or perhaps it is really Kate Hudson who is trying to get Mary Kate's look by not carrying one coffee beverage, but two at the same time (this is presumably also a habit Mary Kate has, judging from photographs of the NYU defectee/mini-mogul)... One may never know, but chances are that young women and stylists everywhere will suddenly discover a fondness for these "Casablanca" style hats this spring...

You're A Shining Star, No Matter Who You Are...

Virgin Threads, one of the best places to find emerging designers' work on the internet, is now known as Stars and Infinite Darkness. The new name is based in part on "...how I see the designers on my website as small stars," says Jason Yang, the owner of Stars and Infinite Darkness. [StyleChronicles profiled Virgin Threads back in July 2005... read the article]. Yang has tons of new additions to make now that the site has made the switch to its celestial new name--be sure to check out Lorraine McCue's Stitched Scarf for keeping warm throughout the winter, and Stella Neptune's skull-adorned blazers and shirts. Also check out Steve Rosswick's collection of men's tees--which are equal parts fun and functional (be sure to check out his "Bonsai?" tree shirt). In addition to these updates, Jason says that the launch of the new name will also bring about other changes to the site. "We'll be focusing on more international designers as well as finding more unusual and edgier items," Jason states. Yang's talent for spotting emerging designers is part of the success of the site, and allows many artists to get the exposure they need to make a name for themselves--these two features make it one to watch in the coming months.

Photo courtesy of Lorraine McCue on Stars and Infinite Darkness.
www.starsandinfinitedarkness.com.