At The Intersection of Fashion and Culture: Retail Space as Cultural Expression

In a February 21st posting on Flypaper, Wendy posts about The New Boutique: Fashion And Design by Neil Bingham (May 2005), a book that precisely captures the intersection of fashion and culture. Bingham, an architectural and cultural critic, delivers photographs of retail spaces that present merchandise, but also takes into account the cultural forces that produce clothing and other items. Wendy's post got us thinking about the ways in which design influences several aspects of our lives.

"The atmosphere within a retail space tells a story, it can draw us in, make us stay, and keep coming back for more. It can speak to, or be a reflection of, the cultural environment, neighborhood where it resides, and the type of clientele it is looking to attract," explains Cheryl Spigler, an interior designer in Boston. This makes one question what the purpose of retail space actually is, and how it changes depending on the culture in which it resides; obviously in many of North America's chain stores, the issue of the space is merely a question of how much merchandise can be attractively packed into a certain amount of square footage, but some upscale boutiques (although not exclusively) are pushing the limits of retail space and making it serve the community--an interesting idea. Increasingly, however, retailers are realizing the importance of creating stores that are more than just racks of clothing or other merchandise neatly arranged.

Spigler seems to agree with this populist approach to design. "Good design is for everyone," she states. It is definitely for everyone, and now it appears it is by everyone, as well. Given the rise in interactive design elements, Spigler notes, it is becoming increasingly possible for shoppers to customize their shopping experience based on several factors, including Spigler states, "neighborhood, income level, ethnicity, or education." In this way, retail spaces become multifunctional--they reflect not only the shoppers desires, but also aspects of themselves.

Perhaps the best example of multifunctional retail space that we've seen recently in person is Dutch architect Rem Koolhaas' design for the Prada store in SoHo in New York City. At the boutique, dresses and shoes stand next to a ready made theatre space. Of his work, Koolhaas has said, "'Architects, for the first time in several decades, are being solicited for their power to physically articulate new visions...'". Being able to shop and view films, artwork, and other presentations in a retail space leaves ample room for turning the current reail business model upside down. Customers can demand more than the simple shop-then-purchase chain of events.

The co-opting of retail spaces by the shoppers who support them is an interesting phenomenon. If people can exert more control over the shopping experience--essentially customize and maintain it through technology and other means, the possibility of reshaping the entire consumer role is possible as well. Books such as Bingham's are a reminder that change is possible, that design is significant to human experience, and it can broaden our entire approach to influencing change in the social world.

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Badgley Mischka Campaign Features Olsens

The Olsen twins are the new faces of Badgley Mischka. For the first time since their Ashley and Mary Kate empire began producing perfume, clothing, and make-up for stores like Wal-Mart, the twins are using their star power for the advancement of a line other than their own.

What's curious about this advertising campaign is that besides their movie "New York Minute" (which tanked at the box office), the twins really have not done much in the past couple of years besides appear in a massive quantity of paparazzi photos. Sure, they were interviewed in magazines (Ashley in Harper's Bazaar in July 2005, and Mary Kate in the January 2006 edition of W) and have appeared in various promotional tours in Australia and Canada for their Dualstar empire, but other than that, the Olsens have kept a relatively low profile (besides random appearances to of course buy enormous coffees or party in New York City).

So then why did Badgley Mischka pick the twins for their new ad campaign? According to The Daily Dish, the Badgley Mischka designing duo picked the twins because of their "'sensual glamour'". Besides the unbelievability of two nineteen year-old, waif-like girls emanating sensual glamour, the appearance of the twins as the new face/faces (they are fraternal twins, you know) of Badgley Mischka demonstrates the power of paparazzi to catapult you from 'tween purgatory to fashion icon status. Since the public really has not heard much from the twins since they started NYU (Mary Kate subsequently took a "leave of absence" from the school), and the only thing we've seen them in is Us Weekly and Star, we don't know what to think about this new campaign--where were the other 999,998 women who emanated sensual glamour the day they picked the Olsens?

What trouble us is that we're greeted by the Badgely Mischka advertisment as if the general adult public had already been made aware of the twins' significance beyond their lip gloss line at Wal-Mart. But we haven't. Still, people seem to love the Olsens despite their well-orchestrated lives as "there/not there" celebrities. Surely Badgely Mischka do.

What's Old is New Again At Yesterday's Moment

We've loved Yesterday's Moment for a while now, but we have to once again rave about their collection of accessories, particularly necklaces. They have a lot of interesting necklaces up right now, all affordably priced (which we really like) and of course, most of the items are vintage (yay, jewelry recycling!). Sites like YM are really cool because you have the opportunity to opt out of buying only new pieces, which is not only good for the environment, but you get a little history with your bracelet/ring/necklace, too.

The cool thing about many of the vintage sites out there like Yesterday's Moment is that they highlight the fact that fashion really is cyclical--what's old is suddenly new again. Unlike clothing and items from twenty or thirty years ago, however, today's pieces are not made as durably. We're far more inclined to dispose of clothing once we're through with it, or someone tells us it is not fashionable anymore. We're all guilty of this. Buying vintage, though, is one way to remind ourselves that disposability isn't much of a virtue when it comes to clothing, and it also makes it more difficult to find a particular style that suits an individual, and stands the test of time. Alright, we'll get off our soapbox now, as long as you go check out Yesterday's Moment (www.yesterdaysmoment.com). Photos courtesy of Yesterday's Moment.

State of the Fashion Union

Within the fashion blog community, several of us have signed on with event leaders Fashiontribes to share our thoughts and feelings on the current State of the Fashion Union. Below are StyleChronicles' musings on the subject.

“Clothes, the ones that make their way into our closets as impulse buys, gifts or obligatory purchases for compulsory events, are about ourselves. If we bought Gucci leather trousers and a sheer shirt last season, it says we saw something of ourselves in those tarty trappings. But what we actually decide to put on our backs each day and venture out into the world in has nothing to do with trends or marketing. It has to do with who we want to show the world we are. Or who we want to convince ourselves we could be.” –Amy M. Spindler, “What Your Clothes Make of You.” New York Times. November 14, 1999

This quotation from Amy Spindler speaks to the eery intersection of two forces that have become inextricably linked: fashion and marketing. Perhaps what clothing we eventually choose is in fact a reflection of ourselves--but why then do we allow designers and the fashion industry to supply us with all of the tools from which to select our "image"? The State of the Fashion Union as it stands right now is one that speaks from both sides of its mouth: be yourself, they say, but only from the images and insignia we supply you with. Fashion has got to be way more experimental to stay relevant, and it is quite possible that we should rely less on what the masses think, and pay more attention to what we think.

While design houses have always influenced what's fashionable (but perhaps more so in the past), the increasingly cyclical nature of fashion design has forced many into the not-so-enviable position of finding clothing they love, and discarding it once it is "over" according to fashion authorities. On fashion sites, people ponder the life expectancy of cowboy boots, Balenciaga bags, and skinny jeans because fashion has taught us that what's hot one day isn't always the next. Fashion is not quite as full of self-expression nowadays as it is indicative of how well we as consumers can gauge trends, and obtain the most coveted purse or shoe. It's a competition to see who can demonstrate with their clothes that they carry the cultural competency to uncover the subtle meaning of fashion.

Any State of the Fashion Union address must include an acknowledgment that fashion needs to become more focused on the individual, and not the masses, big business, or marketing goals of a multinational conglomerate. Scrambling to get one's hands on the latest piece says nothing about the person behind the garment except that she or he accepts the dominating effect fashion can have on people. Instead of trendy logos, designer names, and hefty price tags just for the sake of them, perhaps our union should go forward and once again recognize the power of the individual to make their own statement, steer clear from wearing company advertising on their body, and instead bow to their own internal sentiment.

Perhaps fashion should acquiesce to style, which as a less fleeting phenomenon, indicates the core of what we'd like to present to others about ourselves through clothes. Style is about preference, but it is also about not giving into the cyclical nature of the modern fashion world--it is enduring. This doesn't mean the decline of fashion institutions; we observe fashion shows in order to know what work a designer has accomplished for a particular season, but must we deem our garb obsolete simply because something new has come our way? Cast away our fashion acquisitions and banish them every season simply because they don't fit on some list of what's "hot" and what's "not"? Our answer is a resounding "no."

We hear a lot about "being yourself" lately, but part of being oneself is acknowledging that we're never going to look good in every style, we're never going to conform to one perfect "look," and we're not meant to devour fashion's latest shiny productions simply because they are there. Construct the message you want to convey to others through whatever means necessary, and go outside the limits of what's available. This State of the Fashion Union address is meant to share the idea that perhaps true fashion is having style, knowing what trends to skip, and what pieces to incorporate into our repertoire as further expression of ourselves. So hold tight to style and to self-expression, and don't be swayed by any temptation to be anything but yourself.

Target 'Makes Design Democratic'

Luella Bartley's new line of clothing for arrives at Target stores soon. The line, a part of Target's Go International Program, is fun and very youthful. According to the February edition of Elle, senior vice president for Target's merchandising, Trish Adams, says "'It's about making design democratic.'" The noble goals of the multi-billion dollar company have clearly manifested themselves in the program, which has in the past brought designers like Cynthia Rowley to the retail giant's sales floor. While the company's relationship with Isaac Mizrahi is apparently not a part of the Go program, it is indicative of Target's desire to stay in touch with changes in fashion, and increase their growth by giving regular people access to big name designers.

Bartley's line for Target is fun, and includes a mix of kitschy cherry patterned pieces (tote bags, skirts, and more), and then some basics like striped rugby shirts and basic blouses; the overall effect is very preppy cool. We would assume, however, that there are probably more components to the line which will only be available in stores (we're lusting over the cherry tote). Shoppers can check out part of the Luella Barley line at Target is on the website (www.target.com), (but some pieces are not available for several weeks) or the February issue of Elle. Best bet? Hit your local Target store early for the best selection of pieces. Photo from February 2006 issue of Elle.

Skullish

Skulls are the new black--want to add panache to an outfit? Throw on a skull patterned scarf or t-shirt. Want to make your guests feel welcome in your home? Towels emblazoned with a skull and crossbones will do the trick (the look is softened by being rendered in pink; available at Pixiegirlshop).

So what's behind this? Alexander McQueen's skull scarf from a few seasons back seems to have been the catalyst for this trend--the scarves sold out quickly, and combined soft silk with a hard-edged skull pattern. SatineBoutique.com has a cold weather alternative in Giulia Persanti's Rose Skull Scarf. Delia's has a pink tote with a slightly friendlier (relatively speaking) skull peering out at onlookers with heart-shaped eyes. Needless to say, one need not pair multiple skull patterns together at once--just one at a time will do, a la Lindsay Lohan. Overall, skulls are a good way to break an outfit up if everything looks a little too perfect. Also, throwing a skull-patterned anything into your outfit makes you just, well, bad-ass and pirate-like (and who doesn't want to be pirate-like?). Ahoy, matey.

We Want to Be Where They Are (Some Place Warm)

A half-serious inquiry: where is it that Urban Outfitters' models exist, and is it perenially warm there? We love Urban for their funky basics and dead-on interpretations of much more expensive clothes (loved the Damsel wide-leg pants Urban sold instead of St. Grace's pricier version), but it is terribly difficult to find anything on the site besides space-dyed sweaters and a limited collection of thermal tees for winter weather. ...And this is not a result of the approaching spring: in Urban Land, even November is the perfect time for an irreverant t-shirt or ethereal sleeveless blouse. Now, this may work for some who live in warm climates, but how about representing the poor souls in Syracuse or numbed-by-winter New Yorkers with some cold weather options? Just a thought. ...But if you absolutely have to have a t-shirt, or you live in a place where people enjoy positively blissful days in eighty degree heat, why not choose the t-shirt at right?

In the quest for a laptop bag, leave no stone unturned

Finding a good bag to tote both your laptop and everyday essentials can be quite a task--you either end up hauling your goods in a student-esque backpack, or spending too much on a bag that might not even protect your computer (and one must always protect their hardware). Enter Alex Grant Bags, a company that makes "luxury laptop bags and cases" that value both form and function. One StyleChronicles reader noted, "The cool thing about it, function-wise, is that it's got a mini-case that slips inside a bigger tote, so I can either bring the whole big bag if I have a lot of stuff to carry around, or just pull out the little case on its own. Kind of like three bags in one." The special removable case is available on several models, including a more streamlined tote called the "Dillon," the "Billie," as well as the "Skye." You can find AGB laptop cases at Fred Segal in Los Angeles, as well as Jacqueline Jarrot. In New York City, they're available at Big Bag; you can also buy Alex Grant Bags at www.agbstore.com. Photos courtesy of agbstore.com.

Mary Kate Channels Kate Hudson...Er, Bogart... Whatever.

Mary Kate Olsen (left) was out and about in Los Angeles recently, presumably channeling Kate Hudson (at right in a photo taken a few months ago) in the prerequisite concert t-shirt and menswear-inspired headwear--but what happens in Hollywood when two stars dressed identically collide? How does one know from where the look emerged in the first place? How can anything be an "individual" look if the whole world is watching, and big companies mass produce the next "hot" fashion item? Discuss among yourselves...

Or perhaps it is really Kate Hudson who is trying to get Mary Kate's look by not carrying one coffee beverage, but two at the same time (this is presumably also a habit Mary Kate has, judging from photographs of the NYU defectee/mini-mogul)... One may never know, but chances are that young women and stylists everywhere will suddenly discover a fondness for these "Casablanca" style hats this spring...

You're A Shining Star, No Matter Who You Are...

Virgin Threads, one of the best places to find emerging designers' work on the internet, is now known as Stars and Infinite Darkness. The new name is based in part on "...how I see the designers on my website as small stars," says Jason Yang, the owner of Stars and Infinite Darkness. [StyleChronicles profiled Virgin Threads back in July 2005... read the article]. Yang has tons of new additions to make now that the site has made the switch to its celestial new name--be sure to check out Lorraine McCue's Stitched Scarf for keeping warm throughout the winter, and Stella Neptune's skull-adorned blazers and shirts. Also check out Steve Rosswick's collection of men's tees--which are equal parts fun and functional (be sure to check out his "Bonsai?" tree shirt). In addition to these updates, Jason says that the launch of the new name will also bring about other changes to the site. "We'll be focusing on more international designers as well as finding more unusual and edgier items," Jason states. Yang's talent for spotting emerging designers is part of the success of the site, and allows many artists to get the exposure they need to make a name for themselves--these two features make it one to watch in the coming months.

Photo courtesy of Lorraine McCue on Stars and Infinite Darkness.
www.starsandinfinitedarkness.com.

These Boots Were Made For Walking (no, seriously, they were...)

Whether you're pounding the pavement every day, or just walking from your house/apartment/whatever to the car, you need sensible shoes--but we're not talking orthopedics here. Therein lies the challenge, however--where to find shoes that are both comfortable and still fashionable? Try Cresciente's Lirium Boot. At $378 they're super spendy, but trust us, your feet will thank you for selecting a boot that doesn't have 10 inch heels and will keep you warm in the winter (hey, they're pretty tall). If the price tag is still bothering you (like it bothers us), consider these statements:

1. If you wear these boots every day for half the year (we don't know if this is possible, but it is a suggestion), they'll be about $2.00 per wear. (Wear them 365 days a year, and they're only a buck every time you put them on!)

2. ActiveEndeavors.com, where you'll find these Lirium boots, has a discount code--holiday20-- good on all purchases that will give you 20% off these babies.

Photo courtesy of ActiveEndeavors.com.

Fresh Jewels

Having a hard time finding one-of-a-kind, but well made jewels? Check out Vintage-Earth, where you can find beautiful necklaces, earrings, and other items that are whimsical, yet smart-looking. The antique brass piece at left is just one of the many stunning pieces you'll find on the site, many of which feature brilliantly colored stones and great details. Don't hesitate when it comes to deciding on the perfect piece, however--the well-priced merchandise moves fast. Be sure to check out the necklaces, which boast intricate details, but are very easy to incorporate into outfits. The best part about this site is that the jewelry isn't fads--they're the type of jewelry will that get many wears and numerous compliments.

Photo at left courtesy of vintage-earth.com.

Stella McCartney Madness at H&M

Do you love battling for clothing early in the morning at large retail chains? Then you'll love the new Stella McCartney line at H&M. The lines at Boston and New York City H&M locations were formed early, before doors opened, and by the time the crowds all went inside, much of Stella McCartney for H&M was gone. Why? Sales Associates were telling many customers they just didn't have enough of the line to sell; SA's in the Boston store told customers that New York City stores received priority for new shipments over all of the other H&Ms in the U.S. (note to H&M corporate: there are Stella lovers all over the U.S.!). Even in NYC, however, there was not enough merchandise, some shoppers noted. It all seems a bit odd when the line was heavily promoted (magazine ads, the articles in magazines devoted to the line--you could even sign up on the H&M website to receive an email reminder of the line's November 10th debut), enough to bring people to the stores before they opened. Many fans of Stella McCartney, however, were disappointed with the line when it was previewed on the H&M site and stayed away from stores today, the official launch date of the retail chain's limited edition line. While some are less than thrilled at the design and merchandise, we're still hopeful we'll be able to snag a sweater or two before they're gone forever.

Stam, Stam I am

Marc Jacobs has a created the new "it" bag: the quilted "Stam." But how does one create an "it" bag? Send it to celebrities, cross your fingers that they'll carry it, get photographed by unyielding paparazzi, and incite a massive craze! In this case, that's exactly what happened. First Lindsey Lohan carried one to a Coldplay concert in early September in the 'petrol' color, then Nicky Hilton was spotted toting the taupe color (pictured at left), and well... you know the rest. Now the Stam is sold out in Marc Jacobs boutiques across the U.S., and people are stalking department stores and online sites, hoping some person will change their mind, and return one of the wonderful stams (unlikely). So where can a soul desperate for a Stam find one of the gems? Where else, eBay! The bag, which retails for $1,200 has been selling for nearly $1,800 on the auction site. According to Marc Jacobs boutiques, the stam will return for Spring 2006, this time in all sorts of colors suitable for the warmer weather. If you're feeling stalkeriffic, you can check out NeimanMarcus.com, BergdorfGoodman.com, ELuxury.com on a daily basis to see if anyone has cancelled their (back)order.
Photo credit: Eluxury.com.

Military ruffle neck jacket

Tired of your boring pea coat? The military ruffle neck coat made of wool, and available at Urban Outfitters is the perfect antidote. The jacket, which is fully lined, hits at almost mid-thigh, and is slim through the waist area so as not to achieve that bulky effect some pea coats have. Retails for $140, but you can probably find a code on Reesycakes.com.

StyleChronicles is also loving Free People's Fitted Wool Coat, also available on Urban Outfitters. Also made of wool, it features a cozy little faux fur trimmed hood, cool buttons, and a lot of details that make it a better-than-average fall/winter jacket.
Photo courtesy of UrbanOutfitters.com.

Suzanne Juul's Eternity Shawl Continues to Rock

Back in February 2005 when StyleChronicles first started, Suzanne Juul gave us our first interview. Besides being one of the most inspiring designers out there, Suzanne is one of the kindest women we know! Her Eternity Shawl is one of the most versatile pieces we own. The shawl, which is made of one continuous piece of super soft kid mohair from Italy, can be worn a bunch of different ways--looped loosely around the neck, stretched across the shoulders, or bundled up against one's neck--and it will always keep you warm. For winters in New York (as Mary Kate Olsen discovered), Boston, Chicago, or any city covered in the snow for much of the winter, the Eternity Shawl is an absolute necessity! Suzanne Juul's Eternity Shawl can be purchased at LuvCharlie, www.luvcharlie.com. Check out the StyleChronicles interview with Suzanne Juul here: http://www.stylechronicles.com/News/p2_articleid/6. Photos are courtesy of LuvCharlie.com.

Forget your Balenciaga, Coffee is the hot new celebrity accessory

These days, what complements nearly every celebrity’s outfit whether dressy or casual, classic, or trendy? A cup of coffee. While celebrities are certainly responsible for serving as catalyst for many different trends, this is perhaps the most unusual. A cup of coffee in the hand of a celebrity is becoming almost as ubiquitous as the Balenciaga bags thrown over their arms.

The great thing about the coffee-as-accessory trend is that almost anyone can replicate it. If you have $5 to drop on a cup of hot or iced coffee at your local java house, then you’re ready to walk around looking appropriately bemused by the absence of paparazzi as you walk to your car/home/job. (Please note: cups from Starbucks, organic coffee mini-chain Urth Caffe, or Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf, are preferable).

If you're trying to channel a particular celebrity with your coffee purchase, it is also important to get the look right, and that means figuring out what your favorite celebrity drinks. Mary Kate Olsen prefers to mix things up--sometimes she likes two coffees, one iced and one hot--while Britney Spears sticks to frappucinos. Nicole Richie, on the other hand, seems to prefer iced coffee, even though her attached-at-the-hip fiance Adam Goldstein likes it hot. Ashley, the calmer and blonder Olsen, shares her preference for hot coffee with Nicole's fiance, often toting oversized cups of joe around L.A. and to classes at NYU.

While we write this entry in jest, we are most definitely in awe of young Hollywood's ability to single-handedly bring the coffee cup into fashion. What's next, dry cleaning?

Who Needs Buttons?

Who needs buttons when you can have a just-as-sassy cardigan with an ornamental pick of sorts? Sounds odd, but Cue & Emm's Circle Sweater, available on LuvCharlie, is actually cool. At $65, the cotton/acrylic/wool blend sweater will keep you warm without breaking the bank.

Money to burn? Then consider Rick Owens' shawl cardigan made of merino wool, available on Net-a-porter. While this piece is pricey at around $395, the neutral color and unstructured design mean you can pair it with anything from jeans and a t-shirt to dressier pants for the office. Need another reason to justify spending a chunk of change on a sweater? Figure out the "cost-per-wear" of the item (the cost of the item, divided by the number of times you'll reasonably wear it year-round).
Photos courtesy of LuvCharlie.com and Net-a-porter.com, respectively.

Stella McCartney for H&M, the countdown begins...

H&M, the Swedish company that employs over 30,000 people can now add one more to that figure: Stella McCartney. As Vogue.com states, the uber-designer raised the profile of Chloe when she became chief designer in 1997. When McCartney finally left Chloe, she began designing her eponymous line of women's clothing. Since launching that endeavor, McCartney has continued to expand her brand name with cosmetics ("Stella," her perfume, is to die for), and has now partnered up with H&M to bring her high-fashion design to consumers looking for a lower price point.

In the October 2005 issue of Harper's Bazaar, McCartney says of her line, "Girls of all ages, shapes, sizes and backgrounds were always coming up to me and saying, 'I really love your stuff, but I can't afford it,' and this was a great opportunity for us to give them everything they've ever wanted from Stella McCartney."

The line, which hits select H&M stores nationwide in the U.S. on November 10th, is available for limited preview online at hm.com right now, but will be unveiling more of the collection on the site on October 27th. The collection will most likely cause quite a stir--translation? You better hit H&M on November 10th to get the best selection of the limited edition Stella McCartney for H&M line.
Photo at right is courtesy of hm.com.